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Wall light switch circuit.
Completed switch circuit with additional light added.
A circuit that is open is broken and has no continuity.
The simplest and most common light switch is actually referred to by hardware dealers and electricians as a single pole light switch with a single pole light switch flipping the toggle or paddle up completes the circuit turning lights or appliances on and flipping it down breaks the circuit turning lights or receptacles off.
This is an updated version of the first arrangement.
Pick a single pole light switch for most applications.
A circuit that is closed has continuity.
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There is continuity when the switch is on and there is no continuity when the switch is off.
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The red and black are used for hot and the white neutral wire at the switch box allows for powering a timer remote control or other programmable switch.
Wall plates come in three sizes standard midsize and jumbo.
Use wall plate covers and light switch plates to protect from the danger that wires and cords can bring when exposed.
Test the ground wires in the wall switch with a two lead circuit tester which has a red and a black lead running into black body with a small light.
Now run through each connection check it fit the covers on junction boxes insert the fuse and switch on.
Choose from outlet covers like toggle switch plates and rocker switch plates or blank wall plates as simple additions to beautify.
Because the electrical code as of the 2011 nec update requires a neutral wire in most new switch boxes a 3 wire cable runs between the light and switch.
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Keep the circuit breaker flipped off for this.
In the image above the blue shaded area is your loft or floor void w wall lights and s switch.
If all is well and good your lighting should be up and running.
However if the switch fails it does not close the circuit so there is no continuity.